How to choose Your Leather Shoe

A short guide to choose leathers shoes.

It takes a lot of time to select a good pair of leather shoes but if you have the basics in place you will know exactly what to look for.

There is a whole lot of information available and here we are making an effort to simplify the entire process.

Different types of leathers are available from smooth to suede and each is best for different occasions.

Smooth leather is common and its ability to shine makes it the shoe for formal occasions. But even within these there are various qualities.

These include full grain which is top grade and is blemish free. This type is not easy to find a cow with small to large injuries will leave behind scratch marks, scuff marks and marks of other injuries.

Corrected grain leather is different it is created from hides which have many marks and blemishes. It is given uniform look after being sanded and chemically treated. The treatment removes the marks and gives it an artificial plastic look. They develop cracks and creases.

Full grain is the best choice as the pores are not corrected by chemicals and absorb polish very well. Proper care over the years the full grain leather develops a rich patina.

Suede has a myth surrounding it that it requires maintenance and is fragile. Most men avoid it and wrongfully. Quality suede has a plush nap. Its character is seen in the patina. The nap gives suede its character. It makes for casual choice and is versatile and accessible to an average man. It is softer than leather and very durable. It requires less care than other leathers which require polishing. Just brush it to remove dirt, spray it with waterproof spray during rains.

After the uppers now focus on the soles. There are three types of shoe construction which is classified as Goodyear welting, Blake stitching, and cementing.

For ready-to-wear shoes Goodyear welting is the best method of construction. A leather welt / strip of leather connect the upper and the outsole with a layer of cork in between the insole and outsole. When resoling minimum damage is done to the uppers and the sole.

Blake stitching attaches the insole directly with the upper and outsole. This gives it a streamlined profile, it cannot be resoled easily and water can easily enter the shoe.

Cementing is the cheapest and most inferior method of attaching a sole. All adhesives at sometime dry thus detaching the sole from the shoe. This method is used for disposable shoes sneakers etc. They have decorative stitching copying black stitched shoe and Goodyear welted.

Protruding soles are best for tennis shoes which make them look good but on other shoes will make your feet look bulging. Leather soles are best for professional looking shoes. They look good and sleek and make a thud while walking. This does not mean that shoe that has leather sole is of good quality. Companies may cut costs by using rubber soles as they are cheap and attach easily making the shoe cheap.

Dainite produces rubber soles. These give a grip of rubber and have the elegance of leather. They cannot be distinguished from leather and are durable.

Keep in mind that you first need a reputable shoemaker, and the rest follows naturally.

Bottom of Form